By James Vincent
A good form is the foundation for all succeeding lessons. No matter how pretty a dress or design is, if it is placed on a " dumpy " figure, it will have no style whatever.
In this lesson we first learn how to draw a layout for the form. In the next lesson we dress the same form in a very simple dress.
A form must have good proportion and style. A form leaning forward, or making a bow, as one might express it, is not stylish, neither is one with too large a bust and a tiny waist; nor one with high, square shoulders.
This form is used for dressmaker's sketches, and for any dress to be placed on a lay figure.
When the dress is on the human figure, action comes in play and a complete understanding of these lessons will enable the student to draw the human figure in a variety of positions.
TO DRAW THE FORM
When drawing the dress form place the figure in the center of the paper. This may be done by getting the proportions and measuring to see just where to begin the drawing. Leave a little more margin at the bottom, than at the top.
Draw line 1, which is a very slight horizontal curve up, then lines 2, 3,4, 5, 6 and 7 as marked on the lesson plate. Line 2 is thrown out for the bust, and line 3 is thrown in at the waist, which throws the shoulders back. Lines 4 and 5 cross lines 2 and 3 at the waist, at first curving out for the hips, then curving in to the bottom of the skirt oval. Line 6 (center line of waist) follows line 2, not literally, but taking the general direction, getting straighter as it reaches the waist line. Line 7 (center line of skirt) runs straight down from line 6.
See part A of the dress form figure: Dress Form
The collar goes into the shoulders three (3) times and is about the same height. The lines of the collar curve down, as does the waist line, but the bottom of the sleeve curves up. In the back view this order is reversed, as is explained in Lesson II. The collar and waist fines curve up, and the bottom of the sleeve curves down.
There are three planes at the waist: the front, and two sides. You observe but little of the far side in a three-quarter view. This is true of the collar also. These three planes on the waist run into each other, forming a graceful curve. The planes on the collar do the same.
To test the accuracy of your form, drop the dotted lines from the center of the near shoulder to the end of the waist line. This line must be vertical or parallel with the edges of your paper. Drop the dotted line from the end of the far shoulder to the other end of the waist line. This line also must be vertical.
Practice this figure, doing it many times. When you feel confident that you understand all that has preceded and can draw Fig. A with snap, take up Fig. B which is the dress form placed on Fig. A.
If you have followed all directions carefully, you will have a good form on which any costume may be placed.